Watercolour book Online
Demonstrations by Roger from the basics to more advanced tutorials.
Watercolour book online is where you will learn tons about this beautiful medium from the basics of colour mixing and how you use water and then after all the basics we will go onto demonstrations with a one colour figure demonstration, a portrait demonstration, a landscape and a still life.
So where do we start! below is a list of materials
that you will need.
larger the painting you want to do the larger the brush you will need,
if you paint miniatures then a really small brush will suffice but not
many watercolourists paint miniatures anymore. You may need flat brushes
for large expanses like a large sky, when I paint a sky I usually use my
largest round brush but again this is my personal preference.
The thickness of
watercolour paper is indicated by its weight, measured either in grams
per square metre or pounds per ream. The standard machine weights are
90lb, 140lb, 200lb and 300. If you use anything less than 140lb paper
then once you put water onto the paper it will buckle so 140lb which I
use is better, you only get a very slight buckle bit its fine to work
on. Some artists stretch there paper so the paper wont buckle at all,
they place the paper in a bath of water and this expands the paper, then
it is placed on a drawing board and smoothed out with a clean sponge, it
is then taped down using gummed tape and left to dry for a few hours, as
the water evaporates the paper contracts leaving the paper flat. As said
you don't really need to stretch 140lb paper and I have never had to so
140lb paper is generally accepted as the norm (Without stretching).
are various palettes on the market, some plastic and some made out of
enamel, I personally use a plastic one, I would use an enamelled one but
I never seem to see one that I like, when using enamelled palettes you
can see the colours better but using a plastic palette the colours tend
to pixelate, all in all an enamelled palette is the best one to go for. I
also keep my palette in my hand
as I work and enamelled palettes get quite heavy after a few minutes so plastic
I use. Purchase a palette that will hold around nine or more paints,
this means a palette with over nine wells and at least four mixing wells.
Paints....Watercolour paints come in either pans or tubes, pans are little square blocks of solid colour, I don't use pans as I don't think the paint is as good as paint in tubes but it is a personal preference, with tubes you can squeeze out what you want to paint with and no more. As for the makes of paint, there are various makes to choose from windsor and newton, Rembrandt, daler and rowney to name a few, I think there isn't that much of a difference between them but try them out and see what you think. There is also student paints and artists quality paints, if times are hard for you then student ones are the option and there great to paint with and I paint with them quite often but the artists quality paints are more brilliant with brighter colours than the student paints. Watercolour paints are sold either separately or they come in boxes with loads of tubes but these boxed paints come with paints you probably will never use so buying individual paints I think is best.
look at a subject you can decide if a colour is a warm red like cadmium
red or is it a cooler more earthier red like burnt sienna, you can cool
the reds down by adding a yellow or you can modify the colour and cool
it down even more with one of the blues. Using colours as in anything
else is personal so I'm not going to tell you which colours to use for
any given subject, it is best for you to find out yourself which colours
to use. What I do when I'm painting is to look at my subjects colour and
decide if it is cool or warm then add colours to colours to try and
match that colour, its not easy but practice is the only way.
See what Roger is up to on these network channels.
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