Watercolour book Online
Watercolour book onlineDemonstrations by Roger from the basics to more advanced tutorials.

Watercolour book online is where you will learn tons about this beautiful medium from the basics of colour mixing and how you use water and then after all the basics we will go onto demonstrations with a one colour figure demonstration, a portrait demonstration, a landscape and a still life.

So where do we start! below is a list of materials that you will need.

An easel there are plenty of easels to choose from and I always buy the best equipment and materials that I can afford because in my experience paying more for materials is the way to go as they are the best but everyone's different so take your choice, light easels are great for carrying about outside if your preference is to paint out of doors, the more sturdy and heavier easels are best for studio work. If money is tight you can use the back of a chair which is just as good.

Watercolour book onlineWatercolour brushes...Kolinsky brushes are considered to be the best but they are very expensive, kolinsky brushes are the best in that they come to a nice point and they also hold lots of water so you don't have to keep dipping into the water jar all the time, second to these brushes are ordinary sable brushes which are quite adequate for any watercolour work. You will need two or three brushes, a large no.12, a no.8 and a no.4 all round brushes which you can see in the photo opposite, this is purely a personal choice and there are no hard and fast rules, just go out and buy the brush sizes that you feel is right for you.

The larger the painting you want to do the larger the brush you will need, if you paint miniatures then a really small brush will suffice but not many watercolourists paint miniatures anymore. You may need flat brushes for large expanses like a large sky, when I paint a sky I usually use my largest round brush but again this is my personal preference.

Watercolour paper or pad.....Papers come in various weights and surfaces Rough, Hot pressed (HP) or Cold pressed (Not) if you think of rough paper as having peaks and valleys you get the idea of what rough paper is, it has a prominent tooth which can give certain effects like dry brush and it also soaks up the watercolour into the valleys. Hot pressed paper is fine grained smooth paper with almost no tooth and when you paint on this it dries very quickly. Cold pressed
paper has a slight grain which is something like in between rough and hot pressed, most artists use this type of paper.

The thickness of watercolour paper is indicated by its weight, measured either in grams per square metre or pounds per ream. The standard machine weights are 90lb, 140lb, 200lb and 300. If you use anything less than 140lb paper then once you put water onto the paper it will buckle so 140lb which I use is better, you only get a very slight buckle bit its fine to work on. Some artists stretch there paper so the paper wont buckle at all, they place the paper in a bath of water and this expands the paper, then it is placed on a drawing board and smoothed out with a clean sponge, it is then taped down using gummed tape and left to dry for a few hours, as the water evaporates the paper contracts leaving the paper flat. As said you don't really need to stretch 140lb paper and I have never had to so 140lb paper is generally accepted as the norm (Without stretching).

Watercolour book onlinePalette....There are various palettes on the market, some plastic and some made out of enamel, I personally use a plastic one, I would use an enamelled one but I never seem to see one that I like, when using enamelled palettes you can see the colours better but using a plastic palette the colours tend to pixelate, all in all an enamelled palette is the best one to go for. I also keep my palette in my hand as I work and enamelled palettes get quite heavy after a few minutes so plastic I use. Purchase a palette that will hold around nine or more paints, this means a palette with over nine wells and at least four mixing wells.

Watercolour book onlinePaints....Watercolour paints come in either pans or tubes, pans are little square blocks of solid colour, I don't use pans as I don't think the paint is as good as paint in tubes but it is a personal preference, with tubes you can squeeze out what you want to paint with and no more. As for the makes of paint, there are various makes to choose from windsor and newton, Rembrandt, daler and rowney to name a few, I think there isn't that much of a difference between them but try them out and see what you think. There is also student paints and artists quality paints, if times are hard for you then student ones are the option and there great to paint with and I paint with them quite often but the artists quality paints are more brilliant with brighter colours than the student paints. Watercolour paints are sold either separately or they come in boxes with loads of tubes but these boxed paints come with paints you probably will never use so buying individual paints I think is best.

Below is a list of paints which I mainly use and they will cover most subjects but there are other colours that I don't normally use, I have on my palette three reds, three blues and three yellows. Cadmium red a warm red, burnt sienna an earthy red and alizarin crimson sort of half way between warm and cool with blue and red in the colour. Three blues, ultramarine blue a warm blue, colbalt a cooler blue and cerulean an even cooler blue.

When you look at a subject you can decide if a colour is a warm red like cadmium red or is it a cooler more earthier red like burnt sienna, you can cool the reds down by adding a yellow or you can modify the colour and cool it down even more with one of the blues. Using colours as in anything else is personal so I'm not going to tell you which colours to use for any given subject, it is best for you to find out yourself which colours to use. What I do when I'm painting is to look at my subjects colour and decide if it is cool or warm then add colours to colours to try and match that colour, its not easy but practice is the only way.

Your reds
Cadmium red Pale
Burnt sienna
Alizarin crimson

Your blues
Ultramarine blue
Colbalt blue
Cerulean blue

Your Yellows
Cadmium yellow Pale
Yellow ochre
Raw sienna

Other colours
you might need are.
Viridian, Cadmium violet, Raw umber, burnt umber, Payne's grey, Hookers green but you probably will never use them or you might use them occasionally.
Other materials you will need
A Board....
any board will do as long as its sturdy, I use a masonite board which is fine for me but any old board will do as long as it keeps flat.
Water jar....A jam jar or any other container can be used to carry water, I use a small tin bucket which I purchased at hobbycraft for a few pence.
A 4b pencil or whatever you have handy to make marks on the paper, sometimes I use a mechanical pencil only because I don't have to sharpen them, just press a button and you have lead...great.
Masking tape....
I use tape to hold my paper onto the board or you can use drawing pins or clips.
Old scrap paper....
Scraps of paper to practice on, why waste good quality paper to practice on, cartridge paper is relatively cheap and sold in pads of 30 sheets.

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