Watercolour book Online
Demonstrations by Roger from the basics to more
Watercolour book online is where you will learn
tons about this beautiful medium from the basics of colour mixing and how
you use water and then after all the basics we will go onto
demonstrations with a one colour figure demonstration, a portrait demonstration, a landscape and a still
So where do we start! below is a list of materials
that you will need.
An easel there
are plenty of easels to choose from and I always buy the best equipment
and materials that I can afford because in my experience paying more for
materials is the way to go as they are the
best but everyone's different so take your choice, light easels are great
for carrying about outside if your preference is to paint out of doors, the more sturdy and heavier easels are best for studio work. If
money is tight you can use the back of a chair which is just as good.
brushes are considered to be the best but they are very
expensive, kolinsky brushes are the best in that they come to a nice
point and they also hold lots of water so you don't have to keep dipping
into the water jar all the time, second to these brushes are ordinary
sable brushes which are quite adequate for any watercolour work. You
will need two or three brushes, a large no.12, a no.8 and a
no.4 all round brushes which you can see in the photo opposite, this is purely
a personal choice and there are no hard and fast rules,
just go out and buy the brush sizes that you feel is right for you. The
larger the painting you want to do the larger the brush you will need,
if you paint miniatures then a really small brush will suffice but not
many watercolourists paint miniatures anymore. You may need flat brushes
for large expanses like a large sky, when I paint a sky I usually use my
largest round brush but again this is my personal preference.
Watercolour paper or pad.....Papers
come in various weights and surfaces Rough,
(HP) or Cold pressed
(Not) if you think of rough
paper as having peaks and valleys you get the idea of what rough paper
is, it has a prominent tooth which can give certain effects like
dry brush and it also
soaks up the watercolour into the valleys. Hot pressed paper is fine
grained smooth paper with almost no tooth and when you paint on this it
dries very quickly. Cold pressed
paper has a slight grain which is something like in between rough and
hot pressed, most artists use this type of paper. The thickness of
watercolour paper is indicated by its weight, measured either in grams
per square metre or pounds per ream. The standard machine weights are
90lb, 140lb, 200lb and 300. If you use anything less than 140lb paper
then once you put water onto the paper it will buckle so 140lb which I
use is better, you only get a very slight buckle bit its fine to work
on. Some artists stretch there paper so the paper wont buckle at all,
they place the paper in a bath of water and this expands the paper, then
it is placed on a drawing board and smoothed out with a clean sponge, it
is then taped down using gummed tape and left to dry for a few hours, as
the water evaporates the paper contracts leaving the paper flat. As said
you don't really need to stretch 140lb paper and I have never had to so
140lb paper is generally accepted as the norm (Without stretching).
are various palettes on the market, some plastic and some made out of
enamel, I personally use a plastic one, I would use an enamelled one but
I never seem to see one that I like, when using enamelled palettes you
can see the colours better but using a plastic palette the colours tend
to pixelate, all in all an enamelled palette is the best one to go for. I
also keep my palette in my hand
as I work and enamelled palettes get quite heavy after a few minutes so plastic
I use. Purchase a palette that will hold around nine or more paints,
this means a palette with over nine wells and at least four mixing wells.
paints come in either pans or tubes, pans are little square blocks of
solid colour, I don't use pans as I don't think
the paint is as good as paint in tubes but it is a personal preference,
with tubes you can squeeze out what you want to paint with and no more.
As for the makes of paint, there are various makes to choose from windsor and newton, Rembrandt, daler and rowney
to name a few, I think there isn't that
much of a difference between them but try them out and see what you
think. There is also student paints and artists quality paints, if times
are hard for you then student ones are the option and there great to
paint with and I paint with them quite often but the artists quality paints are more brilliant with
brighter colours than the student paints. Watercolour paints are sold
either separately or they come in boxes with loads of tubes but these
boxed paints come with paints you probably will never use so buying
individual paints I think is best.
Below is a list of paints which I mainly use and they
will cover most subjects but there are other colours that I don't normally use, I have on my palette three reds,
three blues and three yellows. Cadmium red a warm red, burnt sienna an
earthy red and alizarin crimson sort of half way between warm and cool
with blue and red in the colour. Three blues, ultramarine blue a warm
blue, colbalt a cooler blue and cerulean an even cooler blue. When you
look at a subject you can decide if a colour is a warm red like cadmium
red or is it a cooler more earthier red like burnt sienna, you can cool
the reds down by adding a yellow or you can modify the colour and cool
it down even more with one of the blues. Using colours as in anything
else is personal so I'm not going to tell you which colours to use for
any given subject, it is best for you to find out yourself which colours
to use. What I do when I'm painting is to look at my subjects colour and
decide if it is cool or warm then add colours to colours to try and
match that colour, its not easy but practice is the only way.
Cadmium red Pale
Roger's mailing list to see where he will be exhibiting/demonstrating
If you are interested in any of Roger's paintings email him
to arrange a visit to his studio (Back room) as Roger calls it.
Other colours you might need are.
Viridian, Cadmium violet, Raw umber,
burnt umber, Payne's grey, Hookers green but you probably will never
use them or you might use them occasionally.
Other materials you will need
Board....any board will do as long as
its sturdy, I use a masonite board which is fine for me but any old
board will do as long as it keeps flat.
Water jar....A jam jar or any other
container can be used to carry water, I use a small tin bucket which
I purchased at hobbycraft for a few pence.
Pencil....A 4b pencil or whatever you
have handy to make marks on the paper, sometimes I use a mechanical
pencil only because I don't have to sharpen them, just press a
button and you have lead...great.
Masking tape.... I use tape to hold
my paper onto the board or you can use drawing pins or clips.
Old scrap paper....Scraps of paper to
practice on, why waste good quality paper to practice on, cartridge
paper is relatively cheap and sold in pads of 30 sheets.
never go down in value and is one of the only things in the world that
actually goes up, See Art as an investment